A PLEASANT LITTLE ADVENTURE IN PAPHOS
By Mary Ellis
A REGULAR TRIP
As a resident of this great little city, I make a point of travelling to the Municipal Market in the historic old town. I do this every Saturday morning and this simple yet fulfilling ritual sets up my whole week nicely. My regular weekly trip usually exibits a delightful mix of rich history and cultural immersion. I also regulalry take in some tantalising sights and sounds of local fare. My weekly visit truly encapsulates the essence of Paphos and its warm hospitality. I also get to sample some authentic local flavours, and I get to appreciate the craftsmanship of some of the unique artisans plying their trade in the area.
A LOCAL ADVENTURE
I have decided to share some of the insights of my regular trip that I regularly enjoy every Saturday morning. This particular local adventure began, as it does most Saturday mornings, with the freshness of a crisp summer morning in Paphos. The Municipal Market, in the historic old town, is just a short bus ride away from where I live in Coral Bay. I always set off early to ensure I reach the early bus in time. As I made my way to the bus stop, I could see the outline of the approaching bus in the distance.Â
A GRAND SCENIC TOURÂ
The bus ride itself offers a grand scenic tour of the city. It slowly meanders through the winding little roads, lined with colourful bougainvillaea and palm trees. I find these sights most pleasant, and it always enhances my anticipation of what the day will bring. As I reached the centre of Paphos, the bus slowly ground to a halt. As I disembarked the bustling area came alive and I was ready to delve into the heart of this old town.
WINDING STREETS & ORNATE ARCHITECTURE
The inner city of Paphos is a living testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Influences from civilizations that have inhabited the city for centuries are still apparent everywhere. I am always struck by the lovely blend of modern life within an ancient historical context. My route on foot, often takes me by an old church, some lovely medieval buildings, and even a ruin or two along the way. The winding streets and ornate architecture make for a pleasant walk through the old quarter.
A CHARMING SETTINGÂ
Surrounded by narrow cobblestoned streets, the market itself is situated within a charming old building near a whole host of other historical sites and landmarks. The colourful facade compliments well the explosion of sweet-smelling aromas at the entrance. As I entered, I eagerly began to immerse myself fully into the authentic local culture on display. Several vendors display an impressive array of local goods and I could feel the pulse of activity cutting through the dampening blend of local chatter and the sound of bargaining. These goods range from handmade crafts and fresh produce to traditional Cypriot delicacies. I have made several friends here and some of these regular vendors now know me and often beckon me over for an informal chat.
FRESH FRUIT & VEGETABLES
The market mainly comprises of several little units that open directly up into the street. Some of these stalls comprise solely of fresh organic produce. I went straight over to one that was brimming with fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables. I was assured that all were grown locally in nearby fields and I could not help but indulge my senses by inhaling the sweet scent of some of the fragrant fresh herbs that lined the tables. As I looked on at the various fruit and vegetables, the elderly woman with a warm smile, offered me a sample of some of her freshly picked figs. A burst of mellow sweetness graced me, encapsulating the essence of the Mediterranean sun and I just had to buy some.  Â
SEVERAL DIFFERENT PRODUCTS
Moving further into the market, there are various stalls offering several different products. These include leather belts, bags and several examples of lace. Some stalls offer hats of various styles and sizes, summer shoes, souvenirs, and holiday nick-nacks. There are also several stalls offering all sorts of local delicacies.
BAKED GOODS & LOCAL CHEESESÂ
A stall laden with an assortment of cheeses caught my eye and I was encouraged to sample some homemade halloumi cheese. The slightly salty-flavoured chewy texture was irresistible and after my purchase, I found myself moving onto a stall selling freshly baked goods. The baker was busily preparing some traditional Cypriot pastries in a small portable oven and the aroma of his warm buttery wares filled the air. As I drew closer the baker gestured to me to take a piece of fresh baklava. This traditional Cypriot sweet pastry simply just melted away in my mouth. Purchasing some, I thought that this would be the perfect addition to my afternoon tea back at home.
LOCAL ARTISANS
The market also featured the creative talents of local artisans. Handcrafted jewellery, colourful pottery, meticulously hand-made straw baskets, and intricate lacework were all on display. I stopped to admire a stall featuring some beautifully hand-painted ceramics. Each piece depicted a traditional Cypriot scene. Engaging with the artist, I learned about the techniques used and the stories behind each design. This added a personal touch to my experience.
CARVED OUT OF WOOD
There was also a craftsman slowly carving wooden figurines at his stall. As I watched on in admiration, he explained to me that this art became his beloved hobby after retiring. He went on to say that he got great joy from creating elegant carvings of local wildlife. These carvings included rabbits, frogs and some majestic sea turtles. I purchased a small wooden turtle as a keepsake and he promptly carved a wooden loop into it so that I could wear the piece as jewellery or on a key chain.
A SENSE OF COMMUNITYÂ
Throughout my visit, I was once again enveloped in the warmth of the local culture. The sense of community in these places is palpable and as I joined a few of the locals at a nearby café, I savoured my small cup of strong Cypriot coffee. I went on to engage in the local topics of the day in typical Cypriot fashion. This simple act deepened my appreciation for the simplicity of Cypriot life, exemplified by familiar smiles and expressions, while discussing the day’s events.Â
AN IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE
My weekly trip to the Municipal Market in the Old Town of Paphos is not just about shopping. It is an immersive experience through the very soul of the old city. My Saturday visit allows me to navigate a path through some history, celebrate some local traditions, and savour some of the rich flavours of the world-famous Cypriot cuisine. My purchases often act as reminders of the stories and the people I encounter each week and the connections that I make with them. Â
HOME SWEET HOME
As I made my way back to my bus stop, my thoughts began to recount my little adventure. I felt content as I sat on the bus and I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the charm and vibrancy of this city in a simple, but fulfilling way. As the bus returned me to Coral Bay, the gentle whisper of a Mediterranean sea breeze hit my face once again and I knew that IÂ was home. My mind and heart however remained in the vibrant market place, where the spirit of old Paphos lives on in every stall and every interaction.
