A PLEASANT LITTLE ADVENTURE IN PAPHOS
By Mary Ellis
A REGULAR TRIP
As a resident of this great little city, I make a point of travelling to the Municipal Market in the historic old town every Saturday morning. This simple yet fulfilling journey sets the tone for my whole week. My regular weekly trip typically offers a delightful blend of tradition, history and cultural immersion. I regularly take in some of the tantalising sights and sounds of local fare, and my weekly visit truly encapsulates the essence of Paphos and its warm hospitality. I also get to sample some authentic local flavours, and I get to appreciate the craftsmanship of some of the unique artisans plying their trade every week.
WINDING STREETS & ORNATE ARCHITECTURE
The inner city of Paphos is a living testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Influences from civilisations that have inhabited the city for centuries are still apparent everywhere. I am always struck by the lovely blend of modern life within an ancient historical context. My route on foot often takes me by an old church, some lovely medieval buildings, and even a ruin or two along the way. The winding streets and ornate architecture make for a pleasant walk through the old quarter of the city.
A LOCAL ADVENTURE
My little adventure began, as it does most Saturday mornings, with the freshness of a crisp summer morning in Paphos. The Municipal Market, in the historic old town, is just a short bus ride away from where I live in Coral Bay. I always set off early to ensure I reach the early bus on time. On this occasion, I arrived at the bus stop just as the bus was approaching in the distance.
A GRAND SCENIC TOUR
The bus itself meanders through the winding little streets, offering a grand scenic tour of the city. Its route is lined with colourful bougainvillaea and the occasional palm tree. I find these sights most pleasant, and it always enhances my anticipation of what the day will bring. As I reached my destination, the bus slowly ground to a halt. Disembarking, the bustling area came alive straight away, and I was ready to delve once again into the heart of this grand old historic little market.
A CHARMING SETTING
Surrounded by narrow cobblestoned streets, the market itself is situated within a charming old building. This is conveniently situated by a whole host of other historical sites and landmarks. The colourful facade complements well the explosion of sweet-smelling aromas that greets patrons at the entrance. As I entered, I eagerly began to immerse myself fully into the authentic local culture on display. Several vendors often display an impressive array of local goods, and I could feel the pulse of activity cutting through the dampening blend of local chatter and the sound of bargaining. The goods on offer range from several handmade crafts, a whole host of fresh produce, and an abundance of traditional Cypriot delicacies. As I have made several friends here, some of the regular vendors often beckon me over for an informal chat.
SEVERAL DIFFERENT PRODUCTS
Moving further into the market, I, like I do every week, found various stalls offering several different products. These include leather belts, bags and several examples of lace. Some stalls offer hats of various styles and sizes, summer shoes, souvenirs, as well as holiday knick-knacks. There are also several stalls offering all sorts of local delicacies.
FRESH FRUIT & VEGETABLES
The market also comprises several small units that open directly onto the street. One such stall comprises solely of fresh organic produce, brimming with fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables. All of the produce on display is grown locally in nearby fields, and I could not help but indulge my senses by inhaling the sweet scent of some of the fragrant fresh herbs that lined the table. As I looked at the various fruit and vegetables, the elderly woman with a warm smile offered me a sample of some of her freshly picked figs. A burst of mellow sweetness graced me, encapsulating the essence of the Mediterranean sun, and I just had to buy some.
BAKED GOODS & LOCAL CHEESES
The next stall that caught my eye was a stall laden with an assortment of cheeses. I was encouraged to sample some homemade halloumi cheese, and the slightly salty-flavoured chewy texture was irresistible. After yet another purchase, I found myself moving onto a stall selling all kinds of freshly baked goods. The baker was busily preparing some traditional Cypriot pastries in a small portable oven, and the aroma of his warm buttery wares filled the air. As I drew closer, the baker gestured to me to take a piece of fresh BAKLAVA. This traditional Cypriot sweet pastry simply melted away in my mouth. Purchasing some, I thought that this would be the perfect addition to my afternoon tea back at home.
LOCAL ARTISANS
The market also featured the creative talents of local artisans. Handcrafted jewellery, colourful pottery, meticulously hand-made straw baskets, and intricate lacework were all on display. I stopped to admire a stall featuring some beautifully hand-painted ceramics. Each piece depicted a traditional Cypriot scene. Engaging with the artist, I learned about the techniques used and the stories behind each design, adding a personal touch to each piece.
CARVED OUT OF WOOD
There was also a craftsman slowly carving wooden figurines at his stall. As I watched on in admiration, he explained to me that this art became his beloved hobby after he had retired. He went on to say that he got great joy from creating elegant carvings of local wildlife. His carvings included efigies of rabbits, frogs, and some majestic little sea turtles. I purchased a small wooden turtle as a keepsake, and he promptly carved a wooden loop and my initials into it so that I could wear it as a piece of jewellery or on a key chain.
A SENSE OF COMMUNITY
Throughout my visit, I was once again enveloped in the warmth of the local culture. The sense of community in these places is palpable, and as I joined a few of the locals at a nearby café, I savoured my small cup of strong Cypriot coffee. I went on to engage in the local topics of the day in typical Cypriot fashion. This simple act deepened my appreciation for the simplicity of life on this lovely little island in the sun. My conversation was exemplified by familiar smiles and expressions while discussing the day’s events.
HOME SWEET HOME
As I made my way back to my bus stop, my thoughts began to recount the day’s little adventure. I felt content as I sat on the bus, and I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to once again experience the charm and vibrancy of the place in a simple but fulfilling way. As the bus returned me to Coral Bay, the gentle whisper of a Mediterranean sea breeze hit my face once again, and I knew that I was home. My mind and heart, however, remained in the vibrant market place, where the spirit of old Paphos lives on in every stall and every interaction.
AN IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE
My weekly trip to the Municipal Market in the Old Town of Paphos is not just about shopping. It is an immersive experience through the very soul of the old city. My regular Saturday visit allows me to navigate a path through some history, celebrate some local traditions, and savour some of the rich flavours of the world-famous Cypriot cuisine. My purchases often act as reminders of the intricate little stories that I hear every week, the people I encounter each week, and the connections that I make with them.
