A LONG STANDING TRADITION OF CITRUS CULTIVATION
First introduced to Cyprus through eastern trade routes, citrus fruits have become central to Cypriot cuisine. Enhanced by the island’s fine climate and fertile land, a long-standing tradition of citrus cultivation is now firmly in place all over the island. The association with citrus is further enhanced by the creation of Cypriot marmalade, which also has a rich history rooted in the island’s culture. Although Cypriots quickly adopted the practice of preserving various citrus fruits in several ways, the tradition of making an orange-based marmalade likely dates back to the late 16th century, adding both depth and diversity to the marmalade story.
A MARITIME ORIGIN
Cyprus oranges, which are the main ingredient of Cyprus marmalade, have directly led to the development of Cyprus’s unique marmalade. The origins of the popular preserve, however, go all the way back to the early 15th century. Portuguese sailors began to preserve quinces during long voyages. They did this by boiling them with sugar, thus reducing them to a bittersweet paste. This paste was then usually taken with dry biscuits. The word marmalade, as a result, derives from the Portuguese word for quince ‘marmelo’. The crude paste would eventually become known as marmalade or marmalada. Whilst this early version of marmalade bore little resemblance to today’s refined orange preserve, it did set a precedent for the evolution of the tangy preserve we all know today.
EMBRACED BY THE BRITISH
The simple marmalade recipe had made its way to Britain by the 17th century. Bitter Seville oranges, prized for their aromatic zest and tart juice, were regularly imported from Spain, and these fruits proved to be perfect for British-made marmalade. Their sharpness was perfectly offset by sugar, creating a balance that soon captured the British palate. Janet Keiller of Dundee in Scotland is credited with creating the first commercially sold marmalade throughout Britain. This is after her husband purchased a shipment of bitter oranges at a bargain price. Her homemade recipe helped to establish marmalade as a quintessentially British staple.
A UNIQUE CYPRIOT MARMALADE
Marmalade would go on to gain cultural significance during Victorian era Britain, becoming a breakfast table fixture. The unassuming preserve reflected Britain’s growing love affair with citrus fruits, luxury ingredients, sugar, and leisurely breakfasts at this time. Marmalade also cemented its association with winter, particularly the month of February, when Seville oranges are typically harvested. Mirroring this popularity, marmalade production in Cyprus was greatly encouraged and came to the forefront during the island’s British colonial period, becoming available throughout the island.
A MIX OF LOCAL FLAVOURS & TECHNIQUES
As with other regional and international variations of this product, Cypriot marmalade incorporates local flavours and techniques that give it its unique taste. Marmalade in Scotland, for example, often includes a touch of whisky, giving it a smoky richness. Meanwhile, in Japan, yuzu marmalade, which is made from the tart of citrus fruits, has become a popular alternative to traditional versions of the spread. Contemporary artisanal makers the world over continue to experiment using a whole range of different citrus fruits, constantly infusing the classic preserve with new flavours and textures. Despite these innovations, traditional Seville orange marmalade remains a beloved classic, revered for its complex interplay of sweetness and bitterness.
