THE SAUCES THAT DOMINATE
MEDITERRANEAN COOKING
A SOUTH AMERICAN LEGACY
Native to the Andes Mountains, the simple tomato, which is a member of the nightshade family that includes tobacco, potato, and chilli peppers, is actually considered fruit. Deriving from the Aztec word ‘tomatl’, it has a varied and interesting history that begins in South America from the 7th century onwards. South Americans, during this time, used it as a base for many of their foods. The concept of using tomatoes to create sauces also began during this time. Today, the tomato is a simple, yet essential ingredient to several recipes throughout the world. Various versions of tomato sauce dominate Mediterranean cooking and different versions of tomato-based dishes exist in several countries around the world.
SALSA ROJA
Tomato sauce, also known as ‘Salsa Roja’, in Spanish, was first introduced to Europe via Spain during the 16th century. This new culinary phenomenon soon spread to other European countries. Bernardino de Sahagún, a Franciscan Spanish friar, is believed to be the first European to document tomato sauce after encountering it in Mexico at around the same time.
SALSA DI POMODORO
The first published Italian recipe for tomato sauce was introduced to Italian kitchens under the name ‘Spanish Tomato Sauce’ in Lo Scalco alla Moderna. This book, written by the Italian chef Antonio Latini, was published in two volumes in 1692 and then in 1694. Nearly 100 years later, a tomato sauce known as ‘Salsa Di Pomodoro,’ first appeared with pasta in another Italian cookbook L’Apicio moderno, by chef Francesco Leonardi.
SAUCE TOMATE
‘Sauce Tomate’, is a sauce that was first used in the cuisine of the south of France in the late 17th century. This sauce became particularly renowned in Provence and the Basque Country. The Provençals, who were partial to sauce, demanded it everywhere they went. This helped to spread it across the whole of France over the next 100 years. The first written recipe for canned tomatoes also comes from France. It appears in a document written by an unknown chef in Vaucluse, South of France in 1795.
CYPRIOT YIAHNI
‘Cypriot Yiahni’ is a sauce that became popular on the island during the Ottoman era. This sauce slowly developed to reflect a blend of Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern influences. Cypriot chefs began using it to enhance classic Cyprus dishes, such as moussaka, yemista, fasoulia, and stifado. As its popularity on the island grew, other variations of the sauce were also integrated into mainstream Cypriot cooking. Different variations of tomato-based sauces are now commonly used to enhance several pasta, vegetable and meat dishes.
A CYPRIOT STAPLE
Today, tomatoes play a significant role in Cypriot cooking and the red bundle of culinary joy has become a Cypriot staple. The tomato ensures that meals remain rich in taste and they often highlight the diverse culinary landscape of the island. The sauces created from them dominate Cypriot cooking and these sauces often transform dishes with their flavour, colour, and nutritional value. The use of concentrated canned tomatoes or tomato paste that are normally used to create sauces, are also used for tomato-based stews and soups that remain prominent on the island. Tomatoes also complement several meze appetisers and they are also the main ingredient when combined with cucumber, onion, olives and feta cheese to create village salads.
FRESH OR DRIED
The cultivation of tomatoes also reflects Cypriot cultural traditions and agricultural practices, and Cyprus is known for its flavourful local tomato varieties. These include the Santorini and the Beef tomato, which are both prized for their rich sweetness. Preserved tomatoes come in various forms of dried or canned tomatoes, and these are often used to make various pastes that maintain their flavour all year long. Whether used fresh, dried, or as a sauce, the tomato continues to enhance Cypriot cuisine.
