A PLEASANT LITTLE ADVENTURE IN PAPHOS
By Mary Ellis
A REGULAR TRIP
As a resident of this great little city, I make a point of travelling to the Municipal Market in the historic old town every Saturday morning. This simple yet fulfilling ritual sets up my whole week and truly encapsulates the essence of Paphos and its rich culture, varied history, and warm hospitality. It is an experience that not only invigorates, but invites me to engage further with its history, sample some authentic local flavours, and appreciate the craftsmanship of the many artisans on this beautiful island. As I enjoy my Saturday mornings so much that I have decided to share some of the insights of my regular trip that I enjoy every Saturday morning.
A LOCAL ADVENTURE
My little local adventure begins as it does most Saturday mornings, with the freshness of a crisp summer morning in Paphos. The Municipal Market in the historic old town of the City is just a short bus ride away from where I live in Coral Bay and my regular weekly trip promised to be yet another delightful mix of rich history, cultural immersion, and the tantalising sights and sounds of local fare. Again I had set off early to ensure I would not miss out on the small treasures that awaited me, and as I made my way to the bus stop, I could see the outline of my approaching bus in the distance.
A GRAND SCENIC TOUR
The bus ride itself offers a grand scenic tour of the city, slowly meandering through the winding roads that are lined with colourful bougainvillaea and palm trees. I find these sights most pleasant, and it always enhances my anticipation of what the day will bring. As I reached the centre of Paphos, the bus slowly ground to a halt and as I disembarked the bustling area came alive yet again. I was once again ready to delve into the heart of this old town.
WINDING STREETS & ORNATE ARCHITECTURE
The inner city of Paphos is a living testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Influences from civilizations that have inhabited the city for centuries are still apparent everywhere and I am always struck by the lovely blend of modern life within an ancient historic context. My route often takes me by an old church, some lovely medieval buildings, and even a ruin or two along the way and the winding streets and ornate architecture make for a pleasant walk through the old quarter.
A CHARMING SETTING
The market itself is situated within a charming old building that is surrounded by narrow cobblestone streets, that lead to a whole host of other historical sites and landmarks. The colourful façade compliments well the explosion of sweet-smelling scents at the entrance, and as I entered, I eagerly began to immerse myself fully into the authentic local culture on display. Several local vendors are displaying an impressive array of goods that range from handmade crafts and fresh produce to traditional Cypriot delicacies and as they beckoned me over I could feel the pulse of activity cutting through the blend of local chatter, the sound of bargaining, and some of the delightful aromas.
FRESH FRUIT & VEGETABLES
The market mainly comprises of several little units that open directly up into the street and some of these stalls comprise solely of fresh organic produce. I went straight over to one that was brimming with local produce. As I admired the fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables, I was assured that all was grown locally in nearby fields and I could not help but indulge my senses by inhaling the sweet scent of some of the fragrant fresh herbs that lined the tables. As I looked on at the various fruit and vegetables, the elderly woman with a warm smile, offered me a sample of some of her freshly picked figs. A burst of mellow sweetness graced my mouth, encapsulating the essence of the Mediterranean sun and I just had to buy some.
LOCAL DELICACIES
Moving further into the market, there are various stalls offering several different things, such as leather belts, bags and lace. Some stalls offer hats of various styles and sizes, summer shoes, souvenirs, and holiday nick-nacks. There are also several vendors selling all sorts of local delicacies. A stall laden with an assortment of cheeses caught my eye and I was encouraged to sample some homemade halloumi cheese, the famous semi-hard cheese unique to Cyprus. The slightly salty flavoured chewy texture was irresistible and after my purchase, I found myself moving onto a stall selling baked goods. The baker was busily preparing some traditional Cypriot pastries in a small portable oven and the aroma of his warm buttery wares, filled the air, drawing me closer and closer. The baker gestured to take a piece of fresh baklava and it simply just melted away in my mouth. I thought to myself that this fresh flakey pastry, filled with nuts and honey would be the perfect addition to my afternoon tea back at home, so I found myself buying some of the thin pastry layers of flaky goodness.
LOCAL ARTISANS
The market also featured the creative talents of local artisans. Handcrafted jewellery, colourful pottery, meticulously hand-made straw baskets, and intricate lacework were all on display. I stopped to admire a stall featuring some beautifully hand-painted ceramics, each piece depicted a traditional Cypriot scene. Engaging with the artist, I learned about the techniques used and the stories behind each design, adding a personal touch to my experience. There was also a craftsman slowly carving wooden figurines at his stall. As I watched on in admiration, he explained to me with each stroke of his knife, that this became his beloved hobby after retiring and that he got great joy from creating elegant carvings of local wildlife. His carvings included rabbits, frogs and some majestic sea turtles. I purchased a small wooden turtle as a keepsake and he quickly carved a wooden loop into it so that I could wear the piece as jewellery or on a key chain.
A SENSE OF COMMUNITY
Throughout my visit, I was enveloped in the warmth of the local culture. The sense of community in these places is palpable and as I joined a few of the locals at a nearby café for a traditional coffee break, I savoured my small cup of strong Cypriot coffee. I went on to engage in the local topics of the day and typical Cypriot fashion, I sought the opinion of most of my companions that day. This simple act deepened my appreciation for the simplicity of Cypriot life exemplified by the familiar smiles while discussing the day’s events.
AN IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCE
My weekly trip to the Municipal Market in the Old Town of Paphos is not just about shopping, but an immersive experience into the very soul of the old city. Again I had navigated a path through some history, celebrated some local traditions, and savoured some of the rich flavours of the world-famous Cypriot cuisine. My purchases often act as reminders of the stories and the people I encounter each week and the connections that I make with them. As I made my way back to my bus stop, my bags filled with my little treasures, and my thoughts recounting my little adventure, I felt content. As I sat on the bus, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the charm and vibrancy of this city in a simple, but fulfilling way. As the 615 bus returned me to Coral Bay, the gentle whisper of a Mediterranean sea breeze hit my face and I was home again. My mind and heart however remained in the vibrant market, where the spirit of Paphos thrives, alive in every stall and every interaction.
INTERCITY BUS TO PAPHOS & THEN BUS 615 TO THE TOWN CENTRE
