THE TRADITIONAL COFFEE SHOP’S
VALUED PLACE IN CYPRIOT SOCIETY
A MAIN FOCAL POINT FOR CYPRIOTS
In earlier times, the traditional Cyprus coffee shop or ‘Kafeneío’ as it came to be known, was the focal point of most of Cypriot life. Extremely popular, traditional coffee shops, in earlier times, would allow patrons a brief respite from their daily poverty-stricken lives. Considered a haven, several local men would spend several hours a day or evenings passing their time in these establishments.
A SANTUARY FOR MEN
The traditional coffee shop of old generally supplied a sanctuary for most men who would generally use it as a place to share the latest gossip or to lighten the mood with funny stories. Other patrons, however, would often use these establishments to discuss important matters of the day. Some would use them as a forum to share their political views and analysis, and several merchants would conduct some of their business transactions there. They were also used to resolve legal and local disputes, as they often supplied a steady supply of witnesses.
SIMPLE BUT EFFECTIVE
Each traditional coffee shop usually consisted of a single large roomed building. These were often filled with a few hand-made wooden tables and reed or rush-woven chairs. There would usually be a large glass-fronted cupboard, used to store cups, glasses and cutlery, and before the advent of electric refrigeration, flat-lid units often containing large ice blocks would be used to chill drinks and some foods. Nearly all of these establishments had a raised fireplace with a receptacle for charcoal. This was usually kept smouldering to constantly heat the hot sand, which was used to make CYPRUS COFFEE.
A SELECTION OF OFFERINGS
In addition to food, snacks and hot and cold beverages, alcohol and various tobacco products were also available for purchase. Some coffee shops had a large blackboard or slate that kept a tab open for patrons to record the amount owed to the coffee shop owner. Patrons would usually sit around a central open fireplace during the winter months, whilst an outside veranda or a built-up pavement, with a tree or vine canopy, usually provided shade for patrons during the summer months.
A POPULAR PLACE
Traditionally, nearly all coffee shops in rural Cyprus were located in and around the main village square. They, along with other notable businesses, often created a hub of activity. Coffee shops became so popular in some villages that men would sometimes have to queue to enter or wait for an empty chair to become available. This soon prompted more coffee shops to open, and in some villages, coffee shops far outnumbered all other establishments. Each coffee shop, as a result, would align itself with local sporting clubs, football teams or certain political parties, supplying their patrons with a common theme of interests.
A SURVEY OF RURAL LIFE IN CYPRUS
‘A survey of rural life in Cyprus,’ which was published by the British Government in 1930, stated that the average amount spent by most Cypriots at their local coffee shop was around 10% of their annual income. The survey also stated that the district of Kyrenia had the greatest number of coffee houses in Cyprus. This was set against the proportion of the island’s greater population.
A PLACE OF BUSINESS
Several businessmen would also conduct some of their daily business at the traditional coffee shop. Moneylenders, masons, farmers, shepherds and various merchants were known to use them as a platform to discuss prices or broker new business agreements. Merchants and farmers would visit throughout the day, selling their wine, grain, fruit, and vegetables from their carts. Local bakers and confectioners would also frequent their local traditional coffee shop, mostly on Sundays and during holidays, selling fresh pastries and other sweet delicacies. Traditional coffee shops also played an important role in legal matters and politics. They were often used as a forum for people to vote on important matters or to sign important documents in front of witnesses.
IMPORTANT MEETING PLACES
Coffee shops in earlier days served as hubs for important people to meet. Important meetings would often involve notable people from the village, such as village elders. It would not be uncommon for the local priest to visit some of his congregation at the local coffee shop or for a teacher to frequent the place with some of his students. Local policemen would also use the coffee shop to regularly meet with rural constables, who were known as ‘Agrophylakes’. The village headman, known as the ‘Mukhtari’, and his assistants, known as ‘Azades’, were also known to frequently meet at their local coffee shop. This sometimes proved a little unpopular, however, as the Azades also acted as local tax collectors.
A FREE COFFE FOR NEWS
It was common practice at the traditional coffee shop for people to take turns paying for each other’s coffee. A patron entering the coffee shop would receive a coffee paid for by the previous patron to enter, and this would continue throughout the day. When an unknown stranger entered, the coffee shop owner would often treat him to a free coffee in exchange for news from faraway villages or towns. As time wore on, coffee shops also began to hold regular newspaper readings that told of news and events from other parts of the island.
A REGULAR HAUNT
Cypriot men regularly visited their local coffee shop two or three times a day. They would spend their time smoking, drinking and playing some unique Cypriot card games. Cypriot versions of BACKGAMMON and chess were also played. The loud sounds from patrons engrossed in these games would often be heard from the street. Travellers, passing through a village, would often first stop at the local coffee shop not only for refreshments but also for local information or directions.
SPECIAL EVENTS & SHOWS
The ‘Karagiozis’ was a travelling shadow hand puppet theatre that traditional coffee shop owners hosted regularly. These much-anticipated, high-demand events were exclusively held at select coffee shops throughout the island, only three or four times a year, and these shows were the main form of light entertainment of the time. Weekly events, such as bingo or quizzes, were also regularly held. They were also the first establishments to introduce weekly movie nights with the advent of television and projectors.
WEEKEND ENTERTAINMENT
The traditional Cyprus coffee shop was strictly a male-oriented environment, and both children and women were forbidden from entering them. In some villages, they weren’t even allowed to walk past them, and the only women to be found in coffee shops were the wives and daughters of the owners. Coffee shop owners would sometimes allow them to help cook the food or serve some of the patrons. This would usually occur at weekends when some coffee shop owners would hold barbecues. In this way, the traditional coffee shop would be transformed into a bar or tavern. This was usually accompanied by live music throughout the day and in the evenings.
TECHNOLOGY INNOVATORS
Coffee shops were also often the first establishments to embrace new technologies. They were instrumental in introducing several innovations to their respective villages. They were the first public establishment to use alcohol based spirit lamps. At the turn of the 20th century, when most of the inhabitants in rural Cyprus were illiterate, traditional coffee shops would hold evening newspaper readings. A designated village reader would read aloud the stories and daily news from the day’s newspaper for all to hear.
BROADCASTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD
Several coffee shop owners were also the first to install wireless radios. This would eventually render newspaper readings redundant. Men would gather instead gather to listen to news broadcasts from all over the world. Coffee shop owners were also the first to introduce gramophones, billiards and table football. They would later add television sets, pinball machines and electronic arcade video games to their establishments.
A NEW ROLE IN MODERN SOCIETY
Traditional Cypriot coffee shops still play a multifaceted role in today’s modern society. While these establishments continue to adapt to the complexities of modern life, they have remained steadfast in their attempt to hold on to their traditions. Every Cyprus village, town and city has them, and although they still exist, newer modern cafes have evolved to cater to a younger clientele. With this in mind, it is true to say that whilst the role of the traditional coffee shop in modern society is not as potent as it once was, these establishments still serve as vital social hubs, especially in villages across Cyprus.
THE COFFEE SHOP'S ROLE TODAY
It is fair to say that the traditional coffee shop today fosters community connections while preserving certain elements of the traditional Cypriot cultural identity. They still focus on the importance of the local community, culture, and connection in a modern world that often feels fragmented. The traditional Cypriot coffee shop still stands as a testament to the power of togetherness. This is shown by the shared experiences that make up a huge part of Cypriot heritage.
THE CHALLENGING ROLE OF THE TRADITIONAL COFFEE SHOP TODAY
A CULTURAL LANDMARK
The traditional coffee shops, or ‘kafeneia’, serve as more than just places to enjoy a cup of coffee. These establishments are cultural landmarks, social hubs, and repositories of history that continue to play a significant role in modern Cypriot society. Despite the rapid globalisation and modernisation that has swept the island, traditional coffee shops remain vital to the social fabric, offering a unique blend of nostalgia, community, and cultural identity.
A TRADITION OF COFFEE DRINKING
Drinking coffee emerged as a tradition on the island during the Ottoman period, when coffee became a central part of social life. Spaces emerged where men would gather to drink coffee, engage in conversation, partake in table games, such as backgammon, and discuss politics and local news. The atmosphere was one of camaraderie, where the men of a community could gather. As the years progressed, these coffee shops became synonymous with Cypriot culture, reflecting the island’s rich history and diverse influences from various civilizations
ESSENTIAL SOCIAL HUBS
In today’s fast-paced modern world, traditional Cypriot coffee shops continue to serve as essential social hubs, and they still provide a welcome space for people to come together, fostering a sense of community and belonging. Unlike the sterile environment of modern cafes, traditional coffee shops offer a warm and inviting atmosphere where patrons can engage in meaningful conversations that also provide history lessons to a certain extent. The simple act of sharing a cup of coffee can strengthen social bonds, allowing individuals to connect with friends, family, and even friendly strangers.
A VENUE FOR LOCAL EVENTS
Traditional coffee shops are integral to the social landscape of Cyprus, especially in rural areas, and in addition to serving coffee, these establishments often feature local art, music, and literature, providing a platform for Cypriot artists and musicians to share their work. This not only supports local talent but also reinforces a sense of pride in a rich Cypriot heritage. They also serve as venues for local events and festive gatherings, celebrating milestones, and they often provide an essential forum for discussion, often hosting important meetings on local issues, further cementing their role in the community. Several traditional coffee shops also hold regular bingo nights and special culinary evenings, usually at weekends.
CYPRIOT CULTURE & IDENTITY
Traditional coffee shops contribute to the preservation of cultural practices that might otherwise be lost in the face of increased globalisation. In a world increasingly dominated by digital interactions, it is true to say that these spaces emphasise the importance of face-to-face communication and the value of shared experiences. These establishments are also crucial in preserving and promoting Cypriot culture and identity. The unique preparation and serving of coffee, often accompanied by a selection of traditional sweets, reflect the island’s relaxed approach to all things. The ritual of drinking coffee in a traditional coffee shop also embodies the values of the famous Cypriot hospitality and generosity that are central to Cypriot culture.
LOCAL ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE
While traditional coffee shops are primarily social and cultural spaces, they also play a significant economic role in the local economy. Many of these establishments are family-owned and operated, providing livelihoods for countless individuals. They often source their ingredients locally, supporting farmers and suppliers within the community. This local economic activity helps to sustain the traditional way of life and keeps money circulating within the community. Growing tourism on the island and visitors seeking a real Cypriot experience have also boosted the traditional coffee shops’ profile, with some becoming attractions for visitors seeking authentic experiences. Visitors are drawn to the charm of these establishments, where they can immerse themselves in the local culture and enjoy a taste of traditional Cypriot hospitality. This influx of visitors has also provided a substantial boost to the local economy, further highlighting the importance of preserving these cultural landmarks.
THE RISE OF GLOBAL COFFEE CHAINS
Despite their enduring significance, traditional coffee shops face numerous challenges in today’s modern society. The rise of global coffee chains and fast-paced lifestyles has led to a decline in the number of traditional coffee shops. Many younger patrons are drawn to the convenience and familiarity of modern cafes, which are threatening the survival of these traditional cultural institutions. However, many traditional coffee shops are adapting to these changes and some have embraced modernity by incorporating technology, such as offering free WiFi and adopting modern marketing concepts, including certain elements of social media marketing, to attract a younger clientele. Others have diversified their offerings, introducing a new, more modern menu, while still maintaining traditional favourites. This balance between preserving tradition and embracing modernity is crucial for the continued relevance of the traditional coffee shop in contemporary society.
