THE TRADITIONAL COFFEE SHOP’S
VALUED PLACE IN CYPRIOT SOCIETY
THE MAIN FOCAL POINT FOR CYPRIOTS
In earlier times, the traditional Cyprus coffee shop or ‘KafeneÃo’ as it came to be known, was the focal point of all male Cypriot life. Becaming extremely popular throughout the ages, they would allow patrons a brief respite from their daily poverty-stricken lives. Considered a haven, several local men would spend several hours a day or evenings in these establishments. The traditional coffee shop would also supply a sanctuary for men to discuss important matters of the day. They became a forum for sharing political views and analysis. Many transactions, as well as disputes were also settled there in front of witnesses. Others would would simply use them to share the latest gossip or lighten the mood with funny stories.
SIMPLE BUT EFFECTIVE
Each coffee shop usually consisted of a single large roomed building filled with a few hand-made wooden tables and reed or rush-woven chairs. There would usually be a large glass-fronted cupboard that would store cups and glasses. Before the advent of electric refrigeration, flat-lid units often containing large ice blocks, would be used to chill drinks and some foods. Most of these establishments also had a raised fireplace with a receptacle for charcoal. This was usually kept smouldering to constantly heat hot sand for coffee brewing.
A SELECTION OF OFFERINGS
In addition to food, snacks and hot and cold beverages, alcohol and various tobacco products were also available for purchase. Some coffee shops had a large blackboard or slate that kept a tab open for patrons to record the amount owed to the coffee shop owner. An outside veranda or a built-up pavement, with a tree or a grapevine canopy usually provided shade for patrons during the summer months.Â
A POPULAR PLACE
Coffee shops became so popular in some villages that men would sometimes have to queue and wait for an empty chair to become available. This prompted more of them to open and according to ‘A survey of rural life in Cyprus’ which was published by the British Government in 1930, the average amount of money spent by most Cypriots at their local coffee shop was around 10% of their annual income. The survey also stated that the district of Kyrenia had the greatest number of coffee houses in Cyprus. This was set against the proportion to the island’s population. Over the years, some of the larger villages and towns boasted several coffee shops. Each one would align itself with local sporting clubs, football teams or certain political movements, giving their patrons a common theme of interests.Â
A HUB OF ACTIVITY
Traditionally, nearly all coffee shops in rural Cyprus were located in and around the main village square. They, along with other notable businesses, often created a hub of activity in the centre of the village. Coffee shops in earlier days also served as a hub for important people to meet. Meetings would often take place at the local coffee shop and these would typically involve village elders along with other notable people. It would not be uncommon for the local priest to visit some of his congregation at the coffee shop or a teacher to frequesnt the place with some of his students. Local policemen would use the coffee shop to meet regularly with rural constables. These were known as ‘Agrophylakes’. The village headman, known as the ‘Mukhtari’, and his assistants, known as ‘Azades’, who also acted as the local tax collectors, would also conduct some of their daily business at the village coffee shop. Various moneylenders, masons, farmers, shepherds and merchants also frequented village coffee shops, using them as a platform to discuss prices or broker new business agreements. Fruit and vegetable vendors would arrive by donkey and cart to sell their wares to the locals, as would wine and grain merchants. Bakers and confectioners would also frequent their local coffee shop on Sundays and during holidays, selling fresh pastries and other sweet delicacies. Coffee shops were also used as a forum for people to vote on important matters or to sign important documents in front of witnesses.
A REGULAR HAUNT
Cypriot men regularly visited their local coffee shop two or three times a day. They would spend their time smoking, drinking and playing some unique Cypriot card games. Cypriot versions of BACKGAMMON, chess and checkers were also played and loud sounds from patrons engrossed in these games would often be heard. The coffee shop also became a convenient place for passing travellers to stop for refreshments. Anyone seeking local information would normally start at the local coffee shop first.
A FREE COFFEE FOR NEWS
It was common practice at the coffee shop for people to take turns paying for each other’s coffee. A patron entering the coffee shop would receive a coffee paid for by the previous patron to enter and this would continue throughout the day. When an unknown stranger entered, the coffee shop owner would often treat him to a free coffee in exchange for news from faraway villages or towns. As time wore on, coffee shops began to hold regular newspaper readings that told of news and events from other parts of the island.Â
EVENTS & SHOWS
Children and women were once forbidden from entering the coffee shop. in some villages, they weren’t even allowed to walk past them. The only women to be found in coffee shops were the wives and daughters of the owners. They would sometimes allow them to help cook the food or serve some of the patrons. Some coffee shop owners would often hold barbeques during the weekends. In this way, the village coffee shop would be transformed into a bar or tavern. The ‘Karagiozis’ was a travelling shadow hand puppet theatre that owners hosted three or four times a year. These much-anticipated, high-demand events, were the main form of light entertainment of the time. These events were exclusively held only at select coffee shops throughout the island at various times of the year. Coffee shops would also hold weekly events, such as bingo or quizzes. They were the first establishments to introduce weekly movie nights with the advent of television and projectors.Â
TECHNOLOGY INNOVATORS
Coffee shops were also often the first establishments to embrace new technologies. They were instrumental in introducing several innovations to their local village. They were the first public establishment to use alcohol spirit lamps, and at the turn of the 20th century, when most of the inhabitants in rural Cyprus were illiterate, the coffee shops would hold evening newspaper readings. A designated village reader would read aloud the stories and daily news from the day’s newspaper for all to hear.
BROADCASTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD
Several coffee shop owners were also the first to install wireless radios, rendering newspaper readings redundant. Men would gather instead at coffee shops to listen to news broadcasts from all over the world. Coffee shop owners were also the first to introduce gramophones, billiard and table football. They would later add new television sets, pinball machines and electronic arcade games.Â
THE COFFEE SHOP'S ROLE TODAY
Traditional Cypriot coffee shops still play a multifaceted role in today’s modern society. Every Cyprus village, town and city has them and although they still exist, newer modern cafes have evolved to cater to a younger clientele. With this in mind, it is true to say that the role of the traditional coffee shop in modern society is not as potent as it once was. These establishments still serve as vital social hubs, especially in villages. They tend to still foster community connections and they preserve elements of traditional Cypriot cultural identity. While these establishments continue to adapt to the complexities of modern life, they have remained steadfast in their attempt to hold on to their traditions. They still focus on the importance of the local community, culture, and connection, in a modern world that often feels fragmented. The traditional Cypriot coffee shop still stands as a testament to the power of togetherness and shared experiences that make up a huge part of the Cypriot heritage.
